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Ceilings and knee walls and carpets, oh my!

Haven’t had much time for mini-ing lately, but this week I finished a petitpoint carpet and a few weeks ago Geoff helped me cut some wood to make ceilings and knee walls for the rowhouse’s attic rooms, so here’s a hodgepodge of pictures for all of my restless readers.

The Queen Anne rowhouse has two large attic rooms that I plan to use as a bedroom and a rec room with a pool table. I wanted to add ceiling lamps but the peaked ceilings makes this tricky. And I never really like dollhouse rooms with slanted walls, they just don’t seem realistic to me. So, I wanted to cut pieces of plywood that could be used to create a flat ceiling, and a short wall.

Since these pieces will meet the ceiling at a 45-degree angle, their edges need to be cut at 45-degree angles. Geoff did this for me with his table saw. (What a guy!)

We used scrap plywood that isn’t the nicest, but it’s going to be covered up with wallpaper and ceiling paper. The house isn’t quite square so it took a few attempts to get the sizes right.

The ceiling piece is about 2-1/2 inches across and fits right into the triangular area above where the roof piece that swings opens is hinged. The wall piece is 1-7/8 tall. (I read on Wikipedia that a knee wall is usually under 3 feet tall, and these would be almost 4 feet tall. So maybe it’s not technically a knee wall.)

Here’s the basic idea.

The ceiling is only truly visible if you duck and look up from underneath, or through the window. But it will make it much neater to add ceiling fixtures in here since now I can hide the wires.

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Queen Anne Rowhouse – finishing the chimney

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, I made a chimney for the Queen Anne Rowhouse. Well, most of a chimney. I’m getting ready to shingle the roof, so I finally got around to making a top part of the chimney to go with the bottom.

I started by cutting two pieces of plywood from the same piece I used for the bottom of the chimney (so the width would be the same), using the miter box to create 45-degree angles at the bottom. The miter box was probably not the best way to do it but Geoff wasn’t around for power tool magic and I was impatient.

When put together, they look like this. I made the top of the chimney double wide, thinking that the bottom part is also (theoretically) double wide, but the inner half is inside of the wall.

Here’s how it looks on the roof. Gets the job done.

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Queen Anne Rowhouse: more frivolous trim!

I keep adding doodads and curlicues to the front of the Queen Anne Rowhouse. It’s like an obsession. After I added the panels and resin trim to the bay window, the house felt kind of unbalanced, with too many dark green stripes at the bottom and none at the top. I rectified this by adding a small piece of cove trim to the bottom of the vine trim.

After cutting the pieces to size, I painted them with Mossy Green and glued them in.

Next I wanted to add some dark green to the top portion of the house. I thought about doing panels similar to the ones on the bay, but didn’t really trust myself to cut trim pieces that would make neat triangles, so I looked around for triangular trim pieces that I could paint and glue on.

I found a great eBay shop, Victorian Doll House Wood Works, that sells all sorts of laser cut trim in 1:12 and 1:24 scale. (They also have a website.) I ordered a set of corner brackets to go on either side of the upper window. I got two sets, one for the front of the house and one for the back.

These are supposed to be 1:12 scale, but they work well to fill up the blank space on either side of the window. The “apex trim” at the top is 1:12 porch trim from LaserTech, which I bought at the dollhouse store before I discovered the eBay seller. In retrospect I might have preferred something frillier, like this, but it seems silly to spend the extra money when the ones I already bought work fine. (Especially considering that I’ve probably spent $200+ on the front of this house already…)

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