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Kitchen sink cabinet continued

Let’s get back to the sink cabinet bashed out of two Cassidy Creations washstands. Here’s where I left off:

Normally, the sides of the washstand are made by attaching long skinny pieces to thin rectangles.

I had planned to use the thin rectangles for the cabinet doors, but since they’re slightly too long, I decided to hold on to those pieces and cut my own doors. I have something in mind for the leftover washstand pieces. I’ll leave you guessing for now.

I have two of these washstands that I bought assembled, and in both of them the pin hinges split the wood when they were inserted into the wood. I used thicker wood for the doors to avoid this (1/16″ rather than 1/32″).

Here are the options I had on hand for the slats on the doors: 1/8″ x 1/32″, 3/32″ x 1/16″, and 3/16″ x 1/32″. The 3/16″ is what I used on the other lower kitchen cabinets, but these doors are narrower — the slats would have taken up most of the door. The 3/32″ looks perfect, but the 1/16″ depth would have been too bulky on the doors. What to do?

Rather than buy some 3/32″ x 1/32″ strip wood (and pay more for shipping than for the wood itself), I decided to cut down the 3/16″ strip wood. I used a piece of the 3/32″ x 1/16″ wood as a template and cut off the excess with a utility knife.

I glued on the vertical slats with the utility-knife-cut edges facing out, so the lines forming the panel would be the straight “factory edges.” Then I measured and cut the horizontal slats to fit between them, again cutting down the 3/16″ strip wood.

Next I painted the cabinet, doors, drawer fronts, and decorative trim.

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Kitchen sink cabinet bashed from Cassidy Creations washstand kits

Back in 2023, I bashed several Cassidy Creations kits into kitchen cabinets for the Mansard Victorian. The lowers and uppers are made from two kitchen cupboard kits, a changing table, and a wardrobe, with a sea captain’s chest for the hood.

I have a Cassidy Creations sink in the bump-out.

I’m getting ready to hook up electrical in the nursery upstairs, which means I need to install the lights down here — one in the center of the kitchen ceiling, and one in the bump-out. As I was getting ready to do that, I started staring at that window, which I made by pulling the trim off a Palladian window and turning it sideways.

Now that the room is all put together, that window looks too big. I have some ideas for replacing it with a smaller one, and it will be best to do that before the light is installed.

In addition, one of the sink legs had never glued in well and was wobbly. The metal sink leans against the wall, and over time the wobbly leg became more and more off-kilter under its weight. The legs had also dug into the floor tiles they were sitting on (which is made from scrapbook paper coated with Gallery Glass paint) and damaged them.

I was able to replace the damaged tiles, but I didn’t want to have it happen again, and I still couldn’t get that wobbly leg firmly glued on anyway. I decided to ditch the legs and build a cabinet for the sink.

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Rocking chair redux

I posted a picture of my rocking chair on the Half Scale Miniatures Facebook group and got a suggestion to spread out the legs more so the chair wouldn’t look top-heavy. This hadn’t occurred to me, but it seems obvious in hindsight.

I wiggled the legs off and removed the stretcher bars, to replace them with longer ones. Unfortunately this means losing the turned piece at the front, which I liked.

I looked around in my stash and didn’t find any turned pieces that would work, so I ended up using a very skinny toothpick (shown here next to a regular toothpick). I bought these on Amazon several years ago and have been hoarding them.

The skinny toothpick fits into the holes in the legs. I had to taper them for the front legs since the original stretcher bar was tapered and the holes were a little smaller. Also, as you can see here, one of the back legs has come unglued.

Even without the turned piece, this is going to look better.

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