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LEGO Starry Night with an upgraded frame

Julia Cameron’s The Artist’s Way has been on my shelf for about two decades, but I never read the whole book until recently. It’s sort of a twelve-step program for people who are creatively blocked. I was feeling that way after finishing a big writing project at the end of 2025 and decided to read the book as a New Year’s resolution.

One of the things Julia Cameron swears by is setting time aside each week to do something fun and creative by yourself — she calls it an artist’s date. The first one I did was a trip to a local indie bookstore where I splurged on a stack of new books, followed by lunch nearby. On my way to the restaurant I wandered into a toy store that had a big LEGO display. I didn’t buy anything, but it got me thinking that building a LEGO set could be another good artist’s date.

I was drooling over the Neuschwanstein Castle, but I’m already short on space to display finished dollhouses, let alone a huge LEGO castle. So I started looking at LEGO Art, which hangs on the wall, and decided to try The Great Wave. I finished it in an afternoon, and it was fun!

So much fun, in fact, that I wanted to do another one. So I bought The Starry Night.

I mean, c’mon. How cute is this?!

(LEGO figures don’t have ears. Yes, of course, it’s the first thing I checked when I took Vincent out of the box.)

This one’s more complicated than The Great Wave, and took me a few weeks. Here’s the finished piece, sans frame.

When I was looking online for posts about other people’s experiences building this set, I came across a YouTube video where someone showed how he extended the frame to include a mat, more like The Great Wave.

Here’s a screen grab from the video:

Honestly, before I found this video I didn’t think there was anything wrong with the frame, but once I saw it, I needed to do it. Regular readers of my blog know that I like to “kitbash” miniatures. Apparently this urge extends to LEGOs.

The video doesn’t provide a parts list or instructions for modifying the frame, in spite of many requests in the comments. With a bit of googling I found a Facebook post where someone posted a similarly modified frame that I assume they derived from the video.

I spent a lot of time looking at the video and the Facebook picture to figure out which additional parts I would need. The extra parts cost about $50 from the LEGO Pick a Brick store.

Coincidentally, I spent one of my other artist’s dates doing a Starry Night paint by number. Can’t say I was a fan of that — the colors that came with the kit don’t match the painting that well, and I’m also just not very good at painting — but I did have fun picking out a gaudy frame for it at Michaels. I’m planning to hang these up together in my office.

Since I’d seen several comments from people asking for instructions for the modified frame, I figured I might as well write up how I did it. If your Google search for how to upgrade the frame for the LEGO Starry Night set has brought you here, I hope this post is helpful. If you just want the parts list, jump to the bottom.

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Mansard Victorian’s nursery continued

While I was working on the nursery floor, I was messing with the pin hinges in the door and accidentally poked the bottom pin through the front of the door, mangling the hole beyond repair. (Hence the chip in the paint.) So before I could continue with the nursery walls, I had to make another door. Two steps forward, one step back with this house.

These doors are made from oval light doors that used to be available on Real Good Toys’ website, but no longer are. This post shows how I make them.

The first door was in a frame I’d made myself out of strip wood. To mitigate future pin-hinging catastrophes, I decided to pull off those pieces and instead use the frame that came with the door — that way the hole and pin at the top were guaranteed to line up. I cut off the threshold at the bottom to hinge the door directly into a floorboard.

The frame is deeper than my strip wood pieces were, so it sticks out in the back. I used the pieces I’d just pulled out of the frame as shims.

The foamcore was getting beat up from all of my messing with it. I covered it with scrapbook paper to have a smooth surface to glue wallpaper to.

Next I painted the new door and the frame.

And now I was ready to wallpaper. I’d picked this paper out when I started working on the nursery last summer.

Since then, I’d bought this 1:12 Bradbury & Bradbury wallpaper from Miniatures.com, and I was tempted to use it instead.

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Mansard nursery floor

With the kitchen electrical finished, I can now lay the floors in the nursery upstairs. The wires from the kitchen lights come up through the floor. My original idea was to leave a slight gap at the sides for the wires to sit in and cover that gap with baseboards.

But when I started playing with it, I found the white wire coming from the middle of the room was too bulky for the floorboards to lay flat on top of it. On to Plan B: a subfloor made of cardboard.

And then I noticed that the bathroom wall isn’t quite flush at the bottom. The front edge of the cardboard needs to be covered with a piece of trim anyway, so I thought about extending the trim piece all the way across the gap at the front of the wall. But this would have been inconsistent with the other walls and would probably look weird.

The wall is flush at the top, but the bathroom wallpaper sticks out a bit, which also bugged me.

I decided to kill two birds with one stone (sorry, birds!) by adding a piece of thin basswood to the front edge of the wall. This mostly gets rid of the gap at the bottom.

And it takes care of the sticking-out wallpaper at the top.

I used the belt sander to make the back of the basswood piece thinner at the top, so it won’t stick out quite as much where it meets the trim piece above. It still does stick out a little, but it’s is less egregious than the gap at the bottom was.

While the paint on that new wall piece was drying, I glued the cardboard to the floor. It’s spaced slightly away from the front edge to accommodate the piece of trim that will hide the edge of the cardboard.

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