The Den of Slack

emilymorganti.com

Page 63 of 239

Half scale Dutch door

Both of my Bill Lankford cottages came with plastic Grandt Line doors installed. I want these to be old country cottages and the those doors seemed too modern, so I removed them intending to make my own rustic doors. Browsing Etsy recently I came across these plank doors from Bauder Pine, and $1.99 is an excellent price, so I decided to give them a try.

These doors fit into an opening that’s slightly taller than the Grandt Line doors, so I had to do some sanding to make them fit. I used the disc sander to reduce the base of the door and also enlarged the top of the door hole with a utility knife and a metal file.

I wasn’t able to match the stain exactly, but came close with a coat of Minwax Weathered Oak followed by a coat of Aged Oak gel stain. It’s pretty shadowy under the overhang of the thatch roof. I’m thinking of ordering another wreath from 4hala to brighten it up but will wait until I fix up the landscaping, so I know exactly what I want. (You can see the wreaths I previously ordered from that shop here.)

The Thatched Cottage has a second door on the back, and I thought it would be fun to make that one a Dutch door. The pins in these doors were too tight to pull out (I tried on three different doors!) so I had to take apart the frame in order to remove the door. This was pretty easy just by wiggling the joints until they snapped apart.

I used my saw and miter box to cut the door in half.

My idea was to add a pin hinge in the middle, so the top and bottom pieces were hinged to each other.

The frame was still disassembled, but it seemed like pin hinging was going to work.

Continue reading

Victorianna master bathroom (almost) done

This week I’ve been working on the shower, tub faucet, and trim in the Victorianna’s master bathroom. Everything was in progress at the same time so I’ve divided this post up by topic instead of showing the pictures chronologically.

Shower

To make the shower floor, I laid down a piece of beadboard (with the grooves facing the floor) and traced around the bottom of the shower. Like with the shower walls, I used the beadboard because I have a lot of it and it’s easy to cut.

The shower floor sits on the tiles, with the shower butting up against it. The shower floor will be glued in but I don’t plan to glue in the shower, so I can have access to the inside if I need it to fix anything later. (I didn’t leave myself access behind the shower in the downstairs bathroom, and some of that tile wallpaper is turning yellow from light exposure now — no way to fix it without destroying things. Sigh.)

The shower hardware is from Elf Miniatures. It came with a washer that I initially thought was supposed to be a base for the showerhead (like in the picture on the Elf website), but the hole on the washer was slightly larger than the part of the showerhead that goes into the wall, so the shower wall would have shown through. Instead I installed the showerhead directly into the wall and used the washer as a drain.

I wasn’t sure if the handle should be pointing down or pointing sideways — on the website it’s sideways, and I almost did that, but in the horizontal position it’s off center in the base, which made me think it was supposed to be vertical. Does it look wrong?

I painted the floor using the same process described in my last post, drilled a hole in the shower floor for the drain, and glued the washer over the hole.

Next I glued in the floor. The dowel is keeping the corner from popping up while the glue dried.

And the shower’s done! Well, almost. I also cut out and painted two triangular shelves. I want to glue some shampoo bottles and soap to the shelves before I glue the shelves to the wall, and don’t have those ready yet.

Continue reading

Victorianna master bath – marble shower & vanity

After a long hiatus, I’m back to work on the Victorianna’s master bathroom. The problem with getting distracted mid-project is that it takes a while to remember what I was doing and what I planned to do next. The last time I worked on this, I had made good progress on the vanity and linen closet, then needed to pause until I could make a trip to Tap Plastics — which is ~40 minutes away, across the Golden Gate Bridge — to get plastic for the shower. I bought that last fall and it’s been sitting in the unfinished bathroom ever since.

To refresh your memory, here’s the bare bones bathroom. The wallpaper only goes halfway down because there will be beadboard wainscoting at the bottom. The door on the left leads to the nursery, and the one at the back to the master bedroom.

Here’s the layout of the bathroom. The corner tub is cast in resin from a Marx bathtub, purchased from Atomic Kiki on Etsy.

The bathroom is large but the sloped ceiling limits what I can do along the right wall, so I decided to do a separate tub and shower with the tub in the short corner and the shower in the tall corner.

Here’s the shower mock-up. The bottom pieces are porch railing base. The surround pieces are the same beadboard I’m using on the walls, but with the scribed part turned toward the wall. I used this rather than regular basswood because the scribed lines make it easy to cut straight. Thin basswood is so soft that when I cut with a utility knife along the grain, I usually end up with a horribly wavy cut.

I put off building the shower for so long after buying the plastic because I needed to drill holes for the handle, and the idea of drilling those holes scared me. (As you may recall from the Blackbird Bar’s optics, drilling holes is not my forte.) I ended up getting Geoff to do it for me. I also needed to bevel the edges so the pieces would meet at an angle, which I did with the belt sander.

I “painted” the base pieces with a silver Sharpie, then glued them together.

Next I checked the edges and sanded a bit more to make them fit together as snugly as possible.

The door handle is made from soft metal wire that can be bent easily with needlenose pliers. I made several handles before I got the size and the curves right.

To glue in the handle, I put a piece of Scotch tape on the back (to cover up the holes where the drill had gone through the paper backing), and then dotted Super Glue on the handle ends and stuck the ends in the holes. The tape was there to keep glue from spooging out the back. After a few minutes I peeled off the paper backing (with the tape attached). A little glue did spooge out, but acetone cleaned it up without damaging the plexiglass.


WARNING: I later tried acetone on a different piece of plexiglass, for a different project, and it made the plastic foggy. I spoke to the people at Tap Plastics about this and they said you should NEVER use acetone on plexiglass, it will usually fog it up and ruin it. I don’t know why it didn’t fog up my shower but they convinced me to never try it again! Windex and Goo Gone are also bad. To clean glue residue off plexiglass, they recommended plain old soap and water or a product named De-Solv-It. Now back to your regularly scheduled blog post…


I used an Xacto knife to add score lines to the door piece, to create the illusion that this is a door set into a larger piece of glass — you can sort of see them in the photo below. To assemble the shower, I glued the bottoms of the panels into the base pieces with tacky glue. While that was still wet, I ran a bead of super glue along each of the seams and pressed the panels together. That glue bonded within a few seconds to hold the panels in place while the tacky glue dried.

Once again, glue smears got cleaned up, and then I used a microfiber cloth (the kind you clean eyeglasses with) to get rid of dust and fingerprints.

Continue reading

« Older posts Newer posts »

© 2025 The Den of Slack

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑